Complete light control in every size. 8×8 frames, 6×6 frames, and 4×4 frames — each with diffusion, nets, black, and solid fabric options. The tools that make good light great.
| 8×8 Frames | ×2 with diffusion (250) and black fabric |
| 6×6 Frames | ×2 with flags (solid black) and diffusion |
| 4×4 Frames | ×4 with multiple fabric options (diffusion, single/double net, black) |
| Apple Boxes | Full, half, and quarter sets included |
| Fabric Options | 250 diffusion, single net (½ stop), double net (1 stop), solid black, Ultrabounce white |
| Additional Clamps | Super clamps + Mafer clamps + magic arms |
Frames and flags are how you sculpt light. A fixture without grip is a source — a fixture with grip is a look. The 8×8 frames with 250 diffusion are my exterior bounce cards: position one opposite the key and you have a massive soft fill that reads as natural ambient reflection. The 4×4 blacks are negative fill — pulling them into position on the shadow side of talent drops the fill ratio and adds depth without touching any fixture. Flags control spill: any time a light creates a hot spot on a background I don't want lit, a flag on the C-stand cuts it. Light control is what separates "we lit this" from "this looks cinematic."
I think of the 8×8 frames as large-format light modifiers. On a Florida exterior, an 8×8 with Ultrabounce acts as a 64 sq ft reflector — point it at the key light side and you're pushing clean, soft fill onto talent. Two 8×8 blacks flanking the subject create a natural vignette that makes the DP's log image look pre-graded in camera. The 4×4s are my workhorse frames — I use them constantly for diffusing single fixtures, creating small soft sources, and flagging off spill. Having four of them means I'm never borrowing from the lighting rig to do grip work.
When mounting frames on C-stand arms, always make sure the fabric is fully tensioned in the frame before mounting — a loose fabric flaps in wind and degrades the light quality. When flagging a fixture, take your time with placement: move the flag slowly into the beam edge until you see the cutoff on the background or subject, then lock the C-stand. Never reach across a live fixture to adjust a flag — you'll get a burn. Communicate with the gaffer and DP before moving any frame that's already placed, because the grips are responsible for not moving something that's intentionally set.
Large-format soft fill (8×8 Ultrabounce as reflector) · Diffusing individual fixtures (4×4 frame in front of fixture) · Negative fill and shadow depth control (4×4 black) · Background flagging to control spill · Cutting the edge of a hard source · Exterior contrast control (8×8 black above talent to block harsh sky overhead)
Wind-sensitive — sandbag all stand bases. Frames are the most wind-vulnerable items in a grip package. An 8×8 frame in a coastal breeze is essentially a sail. Sandbag every stand, orient fabric so the wind catches as little surface area as possible, and take frames down first when weather threatens. The frames themselves are durable aluminum — it's the rigging, not the frames, that fails in wind events.
Complete light control package delivered to any Treasure Coast location.
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